Friday, December 17, 2021

An American in Paris (Not the Movie)

Max was in Paris. He never wanted to go to Paris. He was not a Francophile. She wanted to go there… So, he went. He went to see Paris after she passed.

His hotel room was small but large for Paris. Big enough for a bed, a desk, and a closet for a toilet and shower.

It had a small balcony with a table and chair. He could sip the instant coffee provided by the hotel in small packets and watch people pass through a small corner park where young couples sometimes sat to make-out on the small park bench.

He was on the fourth floor. Above it all. He stood by the rail of the balcony thinking, “I would have to go headlong, or I might just be maimed.”

He didn’t want to kill or maim himself, and he was never good at diving, so he dismissed the thought.

She wanted to go to Paris. He did not. His friends told him she’d gone on to a better place.

He’d gone looking for better places…. to see the reconstruction site at the Notre Dame. The line was too long at the Shakespeare Bookstore, so he didn’t go in. He’d strolled along the Seine and passed several young lovers. Met and was passed by joggers and bicyclists. He saw the Eiffel Tower but didn’t join the cue to see Paris from above. He’d walked by the Louvre but didn’t go in. He’d walked by romantic sidewalk cafes but didn’t take a table but once. He did not find her in Paris. That was the only better place she wanted to go.

So, Max stood by the balcony rail watching young couples making out on the park bench from above it all four stories up and decided to see if he could find her.

No, Max didn’t jump headlong from the fourth floor. He took a cab to the Charles De Gaulle airport and flew to Biarritz where he met with an old friend. A woman he’d fallen in love with years ago and years before he met her. He went to her home… a beautiful place in the hills between Biarritz and Saint Luz. He remembered why he loved her and her… both hers. One unrequited and won fulfilled.

“One should be so lucky,” he said to her… both hers.

A neo-Francophile -

Max wanted to get back to Paris thinking it is a better place after all.

 

Saturday, December 4, 2021

Paris Adventure at the Arche de Triomphe

It was my first full day in Paris.

I like to walk around when I am in a strange city and Paris is so damned surreally strange to trip around in. Every building and narrow side street opened up into another surprise.

My favorite incident happened as I accidently ended up at the Arche de Triomphe. I came out from around a corner and there it was. I stood imagining the stock footage of storm troopers marching through the Arche de Triomphe & thinking of Humphrey Bogart's Mr. Rick saying to Ilsa, "I remember every detail... The Germans wore gray, you wore blue."

A man called out to me from a parked car. I smelled a con. On purpose I played dumb, "No se habla er, uh.... non parle vous Francais?"

"You speak Anglaise. I am Italian." He beckoned me to near his window. I didn't know what to expect but this encounter could possibly be interesting. 

"Come look," he urged. "Ah, you are American. See what I have."

My first rule in a foreign country is to be open but aware... be aware but open to all... pickpockets, muggers, etc. I looked around making sure I wasn't being stalked by secondaries and leaned towards his open passenger door window.

"I have something I want to give to you. Just to show you I am not a pervert, here."

He hung a faux leather coat half out the window. Showing the label inside he said, "I work for this company. See. It is promotion. I give you."

At this point I am not committed to anything. I've seen enough... it didn't look like leather. Don't really want or need a faux leather coat. "I'm travelling light. I have no room in my luggage for anything more, but thank you."

"Look, I give it to you. Free. For nothing, "He reached into his back seat and took out a nice looking suede jacket, laying it over the leather, "and I have this too. Free. For you. Please. Take it please."

I'm thinking that it is free so why not? He hasn't asked anything of me and he began stuffing the coat and jacket in a bag with his Italian Leather Company's name on it.

I thanked him, "Do you have a card or something so that I can look you up you when I go to Milan?"

"The card is in the jacket. Now, if you please. I got very drunk last night. I drank two bottles of wine. Do you like wine?"

I laugh, here comes the pitch... thinking maybe he would try to sell me some cheap wine saying it is the best for an exorbitant price.

I explain, "No, I am in France but I don't like wine at all."

"I have no gas to get back to the shop. I was very drunk last night. I spend all my money. I am

ashamed to ask. Do you have a few Euros you can spare?"

Well, he had me. I admire a good con. I had no small bills in my pocket... some twenties and some fifties.... carried the way I always carry cash.... folded, small bills on top in front & larger bills in back.... I started to peel off a twenty thinking he would be happy with that. But he saw the fifties... oh, that twenty was not enough. I parted with the fifty thinking hell, it was a good con.

He was happy. I was happy. I wonder how many coats he moves each day with that workout?

The faux leather coat %100 polyester was shit, doesn't let the skin breathe... but the suede one was nice and I needed a light jacket that folded nicely into my bag.

Strolling afterwards down the Champs-Elysees with my new jackets I would've never bought made my day. I wondered whether he had a 100 euro bottle of wine yet to sell?

These are the reasons why I walk.